Mürren, the charm-filled Swiss ski resort with empty slopes and zero traffic

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Ski villages don’t get much quainter than car-free Mürren, opposite the Eiger’s north face. Its perfectly formed yet deserted slopes leave Mary Creighton in awe – and a tad baffled…
I’m not sure this has happened to me before. I’ve just skied almost 2200m of vertical and, bar my three companions,

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